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Henties Bay
Attractions............
Back to Henties Bay |
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Unlike many
towns in Namibia that pride themselves on their German
heritage, Henties Bay does not have historical buildings or
museums, or a rich diamond history, or even ghosts to speak
of, but we do have some interesting happenings and sites as
well as a fascinating desert environment that are worth
discovering by fun and nature lovers. |
INDEX
Fish Festival
Fountain
Gallows
Solitude Beach
Cape Cross Seals
Shipwrecks of the
Skeleton Coast
Namib Desert
Lagunen Hill
Lichen Fields
Omaruru River
Omdel Dam
Spitzkoppe
Brandberg |
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Fish Festival
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The
Fish Festival is by far the most
important and biggest annual event in Henties Bay and many
people from all over Namibia and even South Africa flock to
our small town to join in the festivities and jolly
atmosphere. Make sure to attend this happy event that
is presented each year around August. |
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Fountain
A strange but very attractive phenomenon is a fresh water
fountain that is situated almost on the beach in the Valley,
an old tributary of the Omaruru River. Apparently this
fountain served as a live-safer to many early explorers, one
of those being our own Major Hentie van der Merwe who
discovered it in 1929.
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Gallows
Since its
earliest years Henties Bay was primarily an informal holiday
settlement that gradually attracted more people every
December who initially camped in tents but later on set up
small informal wooden houses in the so-called valley, an old
tribute of the Omaruru River.
Because there was no infrastructure or somebody responsible
for cleaning services, it was a battle trying to keep the
area clean, probably leading to much bickering amongst
holiday makers who are responsible for the mess and who
should clean it up. Eventually in 1978 two of the first
permanent residents of Henties Bay, Frank Atkinson and
Willie Cilliers, who respectively settled here in 1969 and
1971, fixed an old tree stump with a rope and noose as a
“friendly but firm” warning to keep the town and beach clean
- or else….!
This gesture is typical of Afrikaner humour and seen as such
without any negative connotation reflecting on obscure
happenings such as real hangings or slavery (which is, by
the way, not part of Namibia’s history).
The gallows, an interesting landmark for more than 20 years
is probably the most photographed item in Henties Bay. It
became a popular tourist attraction and in 2001 the
Municipality had the following inscription affixed:
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THE GALLOWS
Erected in 1978 as an appeal to keep the town and beach
clean.
Initiated by Frank Atkinson and Willie Cilliers, who
respectively settled here in 1969 and 1971 as two of the
first permanent residents of Henties Bay. |
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Solitude Beach
Probably one
of the most beautiful spots along our coastline is Solitude
Beach or Farilhao Bay as it is officially known. The
bay is situated south of Henties Bay and boasts a rocky
shore visible at low tide and the hummocks, dunes formed by
the accumulation of sand around the plants living in this
extreme arid area.
This stretch
lends itself excellently for long strolls and is known as
the Jakkalputz Walking Trail.
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Cape Cross Seals
Cape Cross is
open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. Permits are obtainable from
the office at Cape Cross. Admission fees are payable, which
include a fee per vehicle and a fee per person. No
accommodation is available, only drinking water and toilets.
Pets and motorcycles are not allowed inside the reserve.
The Cape fur seal is the biggest of the nine fur seal
species in the world and breeds only on the west coast of
southern Africa.
Cape Cross is home to a breeding colony of between 200 000
and 250 000 Cape fur seals. Decreases in fish resources
caused by fluctuations in the upwelling system, from time to
time results in mass mortalities although their numbers
normally recover quickly. It seems that nature has its
own way of keeping the seal populations in check.
The cows give birth in late November and early December
after a nine-month gestation period. The bulls, eating an
equivalent of eight percent of their body weight each day,
weigh approximately 360 kilos when they return in October to
establish a harem of 5 to 25 cows each, which they protect
fiercely. Within days of giving birth in November/December
the cows mate again. Although the period of pregnancy is
less than 12 months, pupping takes place exactly a year
later as the cow has the ability of delaying implantation of
the embryo in the uterus.
Due to all the activity from fighting and mating, many pups
are squashed to death by careless movements of the great
bulls. The pups also fall prey to scavengers, such as
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Cape Cross
seals have been exploited for their skins and other products
since 1895. Today the seal population is controlled by
culling and seals are culled at Cape Cross on a controlled
and regular basis. Quotas are given every year by the
Government for the harvesting of seals, depending on their
numbers.
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Shipwrecks of the Skeleton Coast
The Skeleton
Coast is one of the most treacherous coastlines in the world
due to strong crosscurrents, heavy swells and dense fogs
caused by the ice-cold fast-flowing Benguela Current. Rocky
reefs and sand dunes that stretch into the sea spell
disaster for any vessel that get caught up in the gale-force
winds and all-enveloping sea fogs, reducing visibility to
virtually nil.
A small piece of the engine
block of the Winston (stranded 17.10.1970) is still visible
at Durissa Bay, about 23 km north of Mile 108.
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This picture
was taken in 1999 and does not look like this any more.
Sometimes it is completely covered by sand while a small
piece of it is visible at times. |
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The
Zeila
got stranded on 25 August 2008 in the early morning
hours near "Die Walle", a popular fishing spot about
14km south of Henties Bay.
The
fishing trawler that was sold as scrap metal to an
Indian company by Hangana Fishing of Walvis Bay got
stranded after it came loose from its towing line while
on its way to Bombay, India shortly after it left Walvis
Bay. It seems that they will be able to rescue no
more than a few usable items from the stranded ship. |
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Although
numerous ships have stranded along the Skeleton Coast
over the years, very few wrecks are still around today
because of the onslaught of the elements. Some of the
vessels that stranded over the years are mentioned here.
(Most of the information provided by Gunther E. von
Schumann)
There are many stories about sunken ships and failed
rescue attempts such as the almost unbelievable series
of events related to the Dunedin Star, a British
passenger liner of 13 000 tons that stranded in 1942, 40
km south of the Kunene River mouth with 106 passengers
and crew members on board. They managed to take 42
people to the shore while the rest were rescued from the
ship. After many fruitless and grueling attempts to
reach the castaways on the beach, in the process of
which another boat, the Sir Charles Elliott, two of its
crew members and a bomber airplane were lost, all of the
castaways were eventually rescued.
Suiderkus (Dec. 1976)
“In December 1976 the Suiderkus, a Cape Town-based
trawler, which had cost R3,5 million to build and was
equipped with state-of-the-art navigation equipment, ran
onto the rocks at Möwe Bay on her maiden voyage. In a
few months the expensive trawler became rusted and
derelict, reduced to a picturesque but temporary
landmark.
Battered by the waves and the passage of time, her huge
bulk gradually broke apart. One stormy night her hull
was deposited high on the beach. Until she disintegrates
completely, she will serve the rest of her time as a
cormorant’s perch and a topical subject for
photographers.” (From Skeleton Coast by Amy Schoeman.)
Anglers at Terrace Bay can see this wreck while driving
on the beach.
Henrietta Spasheti (14.07.1968)
Whilst moving inshore to fix their bearings the 90-foot
trawler, under command of Capt. W.S. Gillion, ran
aground 5 O’clock on Sunday morning. The incident
occurred 165 miles north of Walvis Bay. The crew of ten
was able to get ashore safely in a life raft. Police
Landrovers under command of G. Brand and Port Captain
Bob Harding brought them back to Walvis Bay on Sunday
night. This wreck can be seen at the most southern
border of Torra Bay. Nature Conservation erected a
signboard north of the Ugab River, on the Torra Bay
road.
Montrose (1973)
The Montrose stranded in 1973 and can be seen just south
of the southern border of Torra Bay. This wreck has
become a popular perch for cormorants.
S.W. Seal
A small piece of the S.W. Seal can be seen just south of
Toscanini. Nature Conservation erected a signboard north
of the Ugab River, on the Torra Bay road.
Winston (17.10.1970)
The East German trawler of 180 tons grounded in thick
fog 2 miles south of the Ugab River Mouth. For many
years she was a well-known landmark and cormorants used
to nest on her battered frame. Eventually she could not
withstand the beating of the sea and slowly
disintegrated. Some parts of her structure were washed
ashore. Parts of her engine block are still visible
today. The Winston indicates a favourite angling spot
for holidaymakers and can be seen at Durissa Bay, about
23 km north of Mile 108.
Old Wreck
South of the Winston Wreck and old steel wreck is
visible and marks a popular angling spot. Nothing is
known of this wreck.
Horingbay Wreck
From time to time anglers mention a large steel wreck
being visible at low tide near Horing Bay. Its origin is
unknown. Presumably it is a wreck from the pre-colonial
period. David Krynauw tried to find references in this
regard but without success. No clues could be traced At
Lloyds of London either.
Erycina (04.09.1896)
The Norwegian Bark came on charter for the Damaraland
Guano Company to deliver stores to Cape Cross and to
load guano for the U.K. She had sprung a leak in rough
weather on her outward voyage. Additional pumps were
supplied at Cape Cross, but after two days it was found
that she could not be kept afloat. It was thus decided
to beach her. The crew was taken back to Europe by the
Woermann Liner, Lothar Bohlen. Over the years many
wooden parts of this ship were washed ashore in the bay
north of Cape Cross. It is not known whether any parts
of her are still recognisable today.
Gethen (26.01.1954)
This fishing trawler stranded at the North Dune of
Henties Bay. For many months anglers used to sit and
fish from her during high tide. In time, the rough sea
smashed her to pieces. Many planks were carried away by
visitors and parts of her structure was probably also
used as firewood. The late Mr. Keet mentioned amongst
others that the nameplate of this boat was kept as a
decoration at one of the holiday houses at Henties Bay.
It is not known whether the engine block is still
visible during low tide.
American Whaler (some time during the 1800’s)
for many years old sailship ribs and beams were visible
above the high water mark at the Omaruru River mouth.
Visitors like Hentie van der Merwe and Sergeant Ross of
the Omaruru police used to cut their bait on one of the
large beams. In later years some of these wooden
sailship beams might have been used as building material
for some of the first holiday houses erected at Henties
Bay, or carried away by one of the salt companies who
operated further north. (It might be worthwhile to check
on the remaining old houses at Henties Bay whether one
could detect some of the old historical beams. Any
information in this regard will be most welcome.)
In this respect Dr. Vedder writes in his book: ”Das alte
Südwestafrika”, 1981 – Page 138: -
“Herero chief Hembapu returned along the coast towards
the Omaruru River after a raid on some Nama further
south. At the river mouth they came upon a shipwreck and
two naked white men - white people they had never seen
before. They gave them Omaire. The one man died shortly
afterwards. They slaughtered an ox in order to leave
some meat for the other survivor. The Hereros then
commenced trekking further inland along the Omaruru
River.” Unfortunately, no date of that particular
incident is known.
Natal Coast (30.04.1955)
Just north of the Gertrud Woermann II the Natal Coast of
over 3000 tons stranded in thick fog. She was on her way
from Matadi to Cape Town. On weekends school children
from Swakopmund used to play on this wreck. She had a
large consignment of coconuts on board, which was a
delicacy at the time. A scrap dealer eventually
dismantled her. Today only part of her engine room and
boilers are visible at low tide.
Gertrud Woermann II. (20.11.1904)
On her second voyage from Germany to Swakopmund this
ship grounded in thick fog on a reef thirty kilometres
north of Swakopmund. She weighed 4603 tons and was built
by Wigham Richardson at Newcastle. She had 400 soldiers,
horses, war material, mail and general cargo on board.
The gunboat Vineta, at that time on a visit at
Swakopmund, assisted with the salvage operations. (The
northern suburb of Swakopmund was named after her.) No
lives were lost. The wreck of the Gertrud Woermann was
visible until 1912, when she disappeared under the water
during a heavy storm. Today only a beacon, the so-called
Gertrud beacon, marks the spot where she has sunk. It is
a popular fishing spot.
Vipava (07.07.1968)
During thick mist the Iranian freighter Vipava, 630
tons, ran aground 16 miles north of Swakopmund under
command of Captain Margaretic. The captain had to shut
down the engines because the fuel was contaminated by
sea water as she had punctured both fuel tanks. The Tug
Otto Siedle arrived on the scene and tried to pull the
freighter off the sandbank but the thick towing rope
snapped and the crew, hungry and thirsty, decided to
abandon the ship. This action most probably resulted in
the total loss of the freighter, as nobody was available
to affix further towropes. By Monday morning the hull
had split open and water had seeped into her engine
room. The vessel was carrying 220 tons of steel plates
and 350 tons of paper. She was on her way to
Khorramsharh in Iran. At low tide her engine blocks are
visible from shore.
Some old sailship parts have also been found along the
coast. In all probability it originated from old
American whalers, which used to frequent our coast
during the early 1800’s on their whaling expeditions. At
certain periods up to 40 ships were reported to be in
Walvis Bay. From Hahn’s map of 1876 it is known that
whaler men landed at the Omaruru River mouth where they
had temporary shelters. Large blubber pots were used on
land, as the making of fire was easy with all the
driftwood, which had been brought by the river from
upcountry.
One must also bear in mind that the Benguela current
could have carried parts of shipwrecks further north
where it eventually washed up on the beach.
Various trawlers sank off Henties Bay. Most probably no
remains of these wrecks are visible. Certain planks or
parts of these structures might eventually wash ashore.
In some of the Henties Bay houses one might find some
wreck artefacts, which were found along the shore during
fishing trips.
Shipwrecks that occur further north than the Suiderkus
can only be seen from the air. The northern section of
the Skeleton Coast Park is a concession area and
restricted to fly-in safaris. |
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Namib Desert
Thinking of
the Namib Desert huge sand dunes immediately spring to mind,
but different to the massive sand sea of the southern desert
the central and northern Namib Desert are characterized by
the Namib plains with inselbergs and rocky outcrops.
The
wonder plant, Welwitschia mirabilis is endemic to
the Namib Desert and some of them are believed to be 1
000 to 1 500 years old. Although it appears
otherwise, the plant has only two leaves, which grow
continually from the base, even in the absence of rain.
The leaves are apparently able to take up fog-water,
although the root, which extends three meters into the
ground, is well adapted to find any available moisture in
the gravel where the plant lives. Though the annual
growth of a leaf in a dry year can be 10 to 20 cm, it can
be up to10cm a month during a wet year.
Lichens,
plants that may even be older than Welwitschia
mirabilis, occur in great numbers in the fog zone
along the coast and are also extremely sensitive to
damage. There are several hundred species of lichen and
some species are believed to live for thousands of years.
Lichens are the result of a symbiotic relationship
between algae and fungi. The fungus portion of a plant
provides the physical support, while the algae carries
out the photosynthesis that provides food and energy.
Lichens are able to use moisture from humid air as well
as from fog.
Saltpans
and lagoons in different stages of evolution occur all
along the coastline while the soil inland in the fog-belt
consists mainly of gypsum. Gypsum soil are extremely
sensitive to damage from off-road driving, and tracks on
these surfaces persist for decades. |
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Lagunen Hill
About 44 km from
Henties Bay you will come across the Lagunen Hills on the
eastern side of the road across from the salt pond. Here black
rocks are covered with crustose lichens and present a
spectacular view of green, orange, grey and black, especially
early in the morning when the fog is still present. The westward
facing hills intercept a great amount of fog, which sustain the
growth of the lichens.
You will notice
the interesting forms of the eroded rocks. Erosion is mainly due
to salt that crystallizes in the rock pores. |
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Many plants and
insects can be found on these hills. Desert plants such as
dollar bush and bushmen’s candle grow amongst the eroded rocks.
Look out for a
small blackish gecko with white spots and stripes. This gecko is
diurnal (active during the day) and is known as Peter’s gecko.
By lifting the rocks carefully many other insects and beetles
may be spotted. Please take care to put every stone back in its
original place.
Rocks should not be removed from these hills. |
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Lichen Fields
Lichens are the
result of a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungi. The
fungus portion of a plant provides the physical support, while
the algae carries out the photosynthesis that provides food and
energy. Lichens are able to use moisture from humid air as well
as from fog.
When looking
closely at lichens you will notice that the colour and form vary
considerably. Some are crustose, lying flat upon rocks or on
gypsum soil crust. Others are foliose with aerial parts
standing up off the soil surface. they may range from
orange to green, grey, black or brown.
Lichens often grow
where gypsum is near the surface, being one reason why it is so
easily destroyed.
Along the Messum
Crater Route you will find one of the richest lichen stretches
in the Namib Desert, characterized by mostly green foliose
lichen.
When viewing green
lichen it is good to do it early in the morning when it is still
moist from fog or pour a little water on it to experience their
vivid colours when the leaves curl open during photosynthesis.
The Damara Tern,
one of the rarest seabirds in southern Africa, make their nests
in shallow scrapes on the ground amongst the lichens, which
provide an excellent camouflage for eggs and chicks. Their
nesting grounds are always between the coastal road and the sea;
therefore their habitat is threatened by thoughtless and
reckless off-road driving.
PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO LEAVE THE EXISTING ROADS.
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Foliose orange lichen, Teloschistes capensis near
Wlotzkas Baken |
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Green foliose lichen, Xanthomaculina convoluta, found
north of Cape Cross and on the Messum Crater Route. |
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Black rocks at Lagunen Hill are covered with crustose lichens
and present a spectacular view of green, orange, grey and black.
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Omaruru River
The Omaruru
River offers the opportunity for various activities such as
walking, quad biking, 4x4 driving as well as excellent
picnic sites. The "old fig tree" is a well-known and
popular picnic site not far from Henties Bay. One can
also drive up the sandy river bed past the Omdel Dam to the
Skoenklip and exit the river at Lêwater to follow the route
to the Spitzkoppe. GPS coordinates are available from
the Tourist Office.
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Omdel (Omaruru Delta) Dam
The Omaruru
River has large paleo (very old) deltas filled with sand and
gravel to form large underground freshwater reservoirs
(aquifer).
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The purpose of
the Omdel dam is to temporarily store ephemeral floodwaters
in a large reservoir upstream of the aquifer. This storage
would allow the settling of the fine suspended sediment so
that clean water can be released in a controlled manner to
infiltration areas over the Omdel Aquifer to feed 16
boreholes further down the river. The aim is to transfer the
contents of the reservoir to the aquifer during the dry
season so that if there were a consecutive good rainy
season, there would be storage space available in the
reservoir.
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The area offers
picnic sites, various bird species, especially when there
is water in the dam, and interesting desert adapted
plants as well as riverine vegetation.
To reach the
Omdel Dam take the C35 to Uis for ±27 km then turn right and
follow the small track for 14 km to the Omdel Dam wall.
Alternatively the Omaruru River course can be followed with
a 4x4 to reach the dam - only during the dry season.
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Spitzkoppe
The
Spitzkoppe
is situated about 100 km from Henties Bay on the D1918 to Usakos. It is probably the best-known and most famous
landmark in Namibia, known as the Matterhorn of Africa.
It offers fascinating rock formations, rock paintings,
picnic and camping sites. Remember that mountaineering equipment is needed for any attempt to get
to the top.
An entrance fee is payable at the office
where semi-precious stones are for sale at the kiosk. |
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Brandberg
The Brandberg
is the highest mountain in Namibia and literally means
"burning mountain". It is situated about 158 km from Henties
Bay and can be reached by the C35 via Uis to Kamanjab.
Local guides from the Brandberg Community Project will
accompany visitors to the famous painting of the White Lady,
situated in the Tsisab Gorge as well as to Maack’s Shelter
and “The Girl’s School”. This requires a strenuous climb of
about 1½ hour into the mountain. They also offer
guided tours to the Ga-aseb Gorge, Amis Gorge and the
Koningstein summit. |
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