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Henties Bay Attractions............               Back to Henties Bay

Unlike many towns in Namibia that pride themselves on their German heritage, Henties Bay does not have historical buildings or museums, or a rich diamond history, or even ghosts to speak of, but we do have some interesting happenings and sites as well as a fascinating desert environment that are worth discovering by fun and nature lovers.

INDEX

Fish Festival
Fountain
Gallows
Solitude Beach
Cape Cross Seals
Shipwrecks of the Skeleton Coast
Namib Desert
Lagunen Hill
Lichen Fields
Omaruru River
Omdel Dam
Spitzkoppe
Brandberg

Fish Festival

 

 

The Fish Festival is by far the most important and biggest annual event in Henties Bay and many people from all over Namibia and even South Africa flock to our small town to join in the festivities and jolly atmosphere.  Make sure to attend this happy event that is presented each year around August.

Fountain

A strange but very attractive phenomenon is a fresh water fountain that is situated almost on the beach in the Valley, an old tributary of the Omaruru River. Apparently this fountain served as a live-safer to many early explorers, one of those being our own Major Hentie van der Merwe who discovered it in 1929. 

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fountain

Gallows

Since its earliest years Henties Bay was primarily an informal holiday settlement that gradually attracted more people every December who initially camped in tents but later on set up small informal wooden houses in the so-called valley, an old tribute of the Omaruru River.
Because there was no infrastructure or somebody responsible for cleaning services, it was a battle trying to keep the area clean, probably leading to much bickering amongst holiday makers who are responsible for the mess and who should clean it up. Eventually in 1978 two of the first permanent residents of Henties Bay, Frank Atkinson and Willie Cilliers, who respectively settled here in 1969 and 1971, fixed an old tree stump with a rope and noose as a “friendly but firm” warning to keep the town and beach clean - or else….!  This gesture is typical of Afrikaner humour and seen as such without any negative connotation reflecting on obscure happenings such as real hangings or slavery (which is, by the way, not part of Namibia’s history).

The gallows, an interesting landmark for more than 20 years is probably the most photographed item in Henties Bay. It became a popular tourist attraction and in 2001 the Municipality had the following inscription affixed:

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gallows

THE GALLOWS
Erected in 1978 as an appeal to keep the town and beach clean.
Initiated by Frank Atkinson and Willie Cilliers, who respectively settled here in 1969 and 1971 as two of the first permanent residents of Henties Bay.

Solitude Beach

Probably one of the most beautiful spots along our coastline is Solitude Beach or Farilhao Bay as it is officially known.  The bay is situated south of Henties Bay and boasts a rocky shore visible at low tide and the hummocks, dunes formed by the accumulation of sand around the plants living in this extreme arid area.
This stretch lends itself excellently for long strolls and is known as the Jakkalputz Walking Trail.

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solitude

Cape Cross Seals

Cape Cross is open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. Permits are obtainable from the office at Cape Cross. Admission fees are payable, which include a fee per vehicle and a fee per person. No accommodation is available, only drinking water and toilets. Pets and motorcycles are not allowed inside the reserve.

The Cape fur seal is the biggest of the nine fur seal species in the world and breeds only on the west coast of southern Africa.
Cape Cross is home to a breeding colony of between 200 000 and 250 000 Cape fur seals. Decreases in fish resources caused by fluctuations in the upwelling system, from time to time results in mass mortalities although their numbers normally recover quickly.  It seems that nature has its own way of keeping the seal populations in check.

The cows give birth in late November and early December after a nine-month gestation period. The bulls, eating an equivalent of eight percent of their body weight each day, weigh approximately 360 kilos when they return in October to establish a harem of 5 to 25 cows each, which they protect fiercely. Within days of giving birth in November/December the cows mate again. Although the period of pregnancy is less than 12 months, pupping takes place exactly a year later as the cow has the ability of delaying implantation of the embryo in the uterus.
Due to all the activity from fighting and mating, many pups are squashed to death by careless movements of the great bulls. The pups also fall prey to scavengers, such as black-backed jackal and brown hyena.

cape cross
seals

Cape Cross seals have been exploited for their skins and other products since 1895. Today the seal population is controlled by culling and seals are culled at Cape Cross on a controlled and regular basis. Quotas are given every year by the Government for the harvesting of seals, depending on their numbers.

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Shipwrecks of the Skeleton Coast

The Skeleton Coast is one of the most treacherous coastlines in the world due to strong crosscurrents, heavy swells and dense fogs caused by the ice-cold fast-flowing Benguela Current. Rocky reefs and sand dunes that stretch into the sea spell disaster for any vessel that get caught up in the gale-force winds and all-enveloping sea fogs, reducing visibility to virtually nil.

 

A small piece of the engine block of the Winston (stranded 17.10.1970) is still visible at Durissa Bay, about 23 km north of Mile 108. 

winston

This picture was taken in 1999 and does not look like this any more.  Sometimes it is completely covered by sand while a small piece of it is visible at times.

The Zeila got stranded on 25 August 2008 in the early morning hours near "Die Walle", a popular fishing spot about 14km south of Henties Bay. 

The fishing trawler that was sold as scrap metal to an Indian company by Hangana Fishing of Walvis Bay got stranded after it came loose from its towing line while on its way to Bombay, India shortly after it left Walvis Bay.  It seems that they will be able to rescue no more than a few usable items from the stranded ship.

Although numerous ships have stranded along the Skeleton Coast over the years, very few wrecks are still around today because of the onslaught of the elements. Some of the vessels that stranded over the years are mentioned here. (Most of the information provided by Gunther E. von Schumann)

There are many stories about sunken ships and failed rescue attempts such as the almost unbelievable series of events related to the Dunedin Star, a British passenger liner of 13 000 tons that stranded in 1942, 40 km south of the Kunene River mouth with 106 passengers and crew members on board. They managed to take 42 people to the shore while the rest were rescued from the ship. After many fruitless and grueling attempts to reach the castaways on the beach, in the process of which another boat, the Sir Charles Elliott, two of its crew members and a bomber airplane were lost, all of the castaways were eventually rescued.

Suiderkus (Dec. 1976)
“In December 1976 the Suiderkus, a Cape Town-based trawler, which had cost R3,5 million to build and was equipped with state-of-the-art navigation equipment, ran onto the rocks at Möwe Bay on her maiden voyage. In a few months the expensive trawler became rusted and derelict, reduced to a picturesque but temporary landmark.
Battered by the waves and the passage of time, her huge bulk gradually broke apart. One stormy night her hull was deposited high on the beach. Until she disintegrates completely, she will serve the rest of her time as a cormorant’s perch and a topical subject for photographers.” (From Skeleton Coast by Amy Schoeman.) Anglers at Terrace Bay can see this wreck while driving on the beach.

Henrietta Spasheti (14.07.1968)
Whilst moving inshore to fix their bearings the 90-foot trawler, under command of Capt. W.S. Gillion, ran aground 5 O’clock on Sunday morning. The incident occurred 165 miles north of Walvis Bay. The crew of ten was able to get ashore safely in a life raft. Police Landrovers under command of G. Brand and Port Captain Bob Harding brought them back to Walvis Bay on Sunday night. This wreck can be seen at the most southern border of Torra Bay. Nature Conservation erected a signboard north of the Ugab River, on the Torra Bay road.
Montrose (1973)
The Montrose stranded in 1973 and can be seen just south of the southern border of Torra Bay. This wreck has become a popular perch for cormorants.

S.W. Seal
A small piece of the S.W. Seal can be seen just south of Toscanini. Nature Conservation erected a signboard north of the Ugab River, on the Torra Bay road.

Winston (17.10.1970)
The East German trawler of 180 tons grounded in thick fog 2 miles south of the Ugab River Mouth. For many years she was a well-known landmark and cormorants used to nest on her battered frame. Eventually she could not withstand the beating of the sea and slowly disintegrated. Some parts of her structure were washed ashore. Parts of her engine block are still visible today. The Winston indicates a favourite angling spot for holidaymakers and can be seen at Durissa Bay, about 23 km north of Mile 108.

Old Wreck
South of the Winston Wreck and old steel wreck is visible and marks a popular angling spot. Nothing is known of this wreck.

Horingbay Wreck
From time to time anglers mention a large steel wreck being visible at low tide near Horing Bay. Its origin is unknown. Presumably it is a wreck from the pre-colonial period. David Krynauw tried to find references in this regard but without success. No clues could be traced At Lloyds of London either.

Erycina (04.09.1896)
The Norwegian Bark came on charter for the Damaraland Guano Company to deliver stores to Cape Cross and to load guano for the U.K. She had sprung a leak in rough weather on her outward voyage. Additional pumps were supplied at Cape Cross, but after two days it was found that she could not be kept afloat. It was thus decided to beach her. The crew was taken back to Europe by the Woermann Liner, Lothar Bohlen. Over the years many wooden parts of this ship were washed ashore in the bay north of Cape Cross. It is not known whether any parts of her are still recognisable today.

Gethen (26.01.1954)
This fishing trawler stranded at the North Dune of Henties Bay. For many months anglers used to sit and fish from her during high tide. In time, the rough sea smashed her to pieces. Many planks were carried away by visitors and parts of her structure was probably also used as firewood. The late Mr. Keet mentioned amongst others that the nameplate of this boat was kept as a decoration at one of the holiday houses at Henties Bay. It is not known whether the engine block is still visible during low tide.

American Whaler (some time during the 1800’s)
for many years old sailship ribs and beams were visible above the high water mark at the Omaruru River mouth. Visitors like Hentie van der Merwe and Sergeant Ross of the Omaruru police used to cut their bait on one of the large beams. In later years some of these wooden sailship beams might have been used as building material for some of the first holiday houses erected at Henties Bay, or carried away by one of the salt companies who operated further north. (It might be worthwhile to check on the remaining old houses at Henties Bay whether one could detect some of the old historical beams. Any information in this regard will be most welcome.)
In this respect Dr. Vedder writes in his book: ”Das alte Südwestafrika”, 1981 – Page 138: -
“Herero chief Hembapu returned along the coast towards the Omaruru River after a raid on some Nama further south. At the river mouth they came upon a shipwreck and two naked white men - white people they had never seen before. They gave them Omaire. The one man died shortly afterwards. They slaughtered an ox in order to leave some meat for the other survivor. The Hereros then commenced trekking further inland along the Omaruru River.” Unfortunately, no date of that particular incident is known.

Natal Coast (30.04.1955)
Just north of the Gertrud Woermann II the Natal Coast of over 3000 tons stranded in thick fog. She was on her way from Matadi to Cape Town. On weekends school children from Swakopmund used to play on this wreck. She had a large consignment of coconuts on board, which was a delicacy at the time. A scrap dealer eventually dismantled her. Today only part of her engine room and boilers are visible at low tide.

Gertrud Woermann II. (20.11.1904)
On her second voyage from Germany to Swakopmund this ship grounded in thick fog on a reef thirty kilometres north of Swakopmund. She weighed 4603 tons and was built by Wigham Richardson at Newcastle. She had 400 soldiers, horses, war material, mail and general cargo on board. The gunboat Vineta, at that time on a visit at Swakopmund, assisted with the salvage operations. (The northern suburb of Swakopmund was named after her.) No lives were lost. The wreck of the Gertrud Woermann was visible until 1912, when she disappeared under the water during a heavy storm. Today only a beacon, the so-called Gertrud beacon, marks the spot where she has sunk. It is a popular fishing spot.

Vipava (07.07.1968)
During thick mist the Iranian freighter Vipava, 630 tons, ran aground 16 miles north of Swakopmund under command of Captain Margaretic. The captain had to shut down the engines because the fuel was contaminated by sea water as she had punctured both fuel tanks. The Tug Otto Siedle arrived on the scene and tried to pull the freighter off the sandbank but the thick towing rope snapped and the crew, hungry and thirsty, decided to abandon the ship. This action most probably resulted in the total loss of the freighter, as nobody was available to affix further towropes. By Monday morning the hull had split open and water had seeped into her engine room. The vessel was carrying 220 tons of steel plates and 350 tons of paper. She was on her way to Khorramsharh in Iran. At low tide her engine blocks are visible from shore.
Some old sailship parts have also been found along the coast. In all probability it originated from old American whalers, which used to frequent our coast during the early 1800’s on their whaling expeditions. At certain periods up to 40 ships were reported to be in Walvis Bay. From Hahn’s map of 1876 it is known that whaler men landed at the Omaruru River mouth where they had temporary shelters. Large blubber pots were used on land, as the making of fire was easy with all the driftwood, which had been brought by the river from upcountry.

One must also bear in mind that the Benguela current could have carried parts of shipwrecks further north where it eventually washed up on the beach.

Various trawlers sank off Henties Bay. Most probably no remains of these wrecks are visible. Certain planks or parts of these structures might eventually wash ashore. In some of the Henties Bay houses one might find some wreck artefacts, which were found along the shore during fishing trips.

Shipwrecks that occur further north than the Suiderkus can only be seen from the air. The northern section of the Skeleton Coast Park is a concession area and restricted to fly-in safaris.

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Namib Desert

Thinking of the Namib Desert huge sand dunes immediately spring to mind, but different to the massive sand sea of the southern desert the central and northern Namib Desert are characterized by the Namib plains with inselbergs and rocky outcrops.

The wonder plant, Welwitschia mirabilis is endemic to the Namib Desert and some of them are believed to be 1 000 to 1 500 years old. Although it appears otherwise, the plant has only two leaves, which grow continually from the base, even in the absence of rain. The leaves are apparently able to take up fog-water, although the root, which extends three meters into the ground, is well adapted to find any available moisture in the gravel where the plant lives. Though the annual growth of a leaf in a dry year can be 10 to 20 cm, it can be up to10cm a month during a wet year.

Lichens, plants that may even be older than Welwitschia mirabilis, occur in great numbers in the fog zone along the coast and are also extremely sensitive to damage. There are several hundred species of lichen and some species are believed to live for thousands of years. Lichens are the result of a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungi. The fungus portion of a plant provides the physical support, while the algae carries out the photosynthesis that provides food and energy. Lichens are able to use moisture from humid air as well as from fog.

Saltpans and lagoons in different stages of evolution occur all along the coastline while the soil inland in the fog-belt consists mainly of gypsum. Gypsum soil are extremely sensitive to damage from off-road driving, and tracks on these surfaces persist for decades.

namib plains
welwitschia
lichens

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Lagunen Hill

About 44 km from Henties Bay you will come across the Lagunen Hills on the eastern side of the road across from the salt pond. Here black rocks are covered with crustose lichens and present a spectacular view of green, orange, grey and black, especially early in the morning when the fog is still present. The westward facing hills intercept a great amount of fog, which sustain the growth of the lichens.

 

 

You will notice the interesting forms of the eroded rocks. Erosion is mainly due to salt that crystallizes in the rock pores.

 

Many plants and insects can be found on these hills.  Desert plants such as dollar bush and bushmen’s candle grow amongst the eroded rocks.

 

Look out for a small blackish gecko with white spots and stripes. This gecko is diurnal (active during the day) and is known as Peter’s gecko.
By lifting the rocks carefully many other insects and beetles may be spotted. Please take care to put every stone back in its original place.

 

Rocks should not be removed from these hills.

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Lichen Fields

Lichens are the result of a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungi. The fungus portion of a plant provides the physical support, while the algae carries out the photosynthesis that provides food and energy. Lichens are able to use moisture from humid air as well as from fog.

When looking closely at lichens you will notice that the colour and form vary considerably. Some are crustose, lying flat upon rocks or on gypsum soil crust.  Others are foliose with aerial parts standing up off the soil surface.  they may range from orange to green, grey, black or brown.

Lichens often grow where gypsum is near the surface, being one reason why it is so easily destroyed.

Along the Messum Crater Route you will find one of the richest lichen stretches in the Namib Desert, characterized by mostly green foliose lichen.

When viewing green lichen it is good to do it early in the morning when it is still moist from fog or pour a little water on it to experience their vivid colours when the leaves curl open during photosynthesis.

The Damara Tern, one of the rarest seabirds in southern Africa, make their nests in shallow scrapes on the ground amongst the lichens, which provide an excellent camouflage for eggs and chicks. Their nesting grounds are always between the coastal road and the sea; therefore their habitat is threatened by thoughtless and reckless off-road driving.

 

PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO LEAVE THE EXISTING ROADS.
 

 

Foliose orange lichen, Teloschistes capensis near Wlotzkas Baken

Green foliose lichen, Xanthomaculina convoluta, found north of Cape Cross and on the Messum Crater Route.

Black rocks at Lagunen Hill are covered with crustose lichens and present a spectacular view of green, orange, grey and black.

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Omaruru River

The Omaruru River offers the opportunity for various activities such as walking, quad biking, 4x4 driving as well as excellent picnic sites.  The "old fig tree" is a well-known and popular picnic site not far from Henties Bay.  One can also drive up the sandy river bed past the Omdel Dam to the Skoenklip and exit the river at Lêwater to follow the route to the Spitzkoppe.  GPS coordinates are available from the Tourist Office.

skoenklip
 

Omdel (Omaruru Delta) Dam

The Omaruru River has large paleo (very old) deltas filled with sand and gravel to form large underground freshwater reservoirs (aquifer).

The purpose of the Omdel dam is to temporarily store ephemeral floodwaters in a large reservoir upstream of the aquifer. This storage would allow the settling of the fine suspended sediment so that clean water can be released in a controlled manner to infiltration areas over the Omdel Aquifer to feed 16 boreholes further down the river. The aim is to transfer the contents of the reservoir to the aquifer during the dry season so that if there were a consecutive good rainy season, there would be storage space available in the reservoir.

The area offers picnic sites, various bird species, especially when there is water in the dam, and interesting desert adapted plants as well as riverine vegetation.

To reach the Omdel Dam take the C35 to Uis for ±27 km then turn right and follow the small track for 14 km to the Omdel Dam wall.
Alternatively the Omaruru River course can be followed with a 4x4 to reach the dam - only during the dry season.

omdel dam

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Spitzkoppe

The Spitzkoppe is situated about 100 km from Henties Bay on the D1918 to Usakos. It is probably the best-known and most famous landmark in Namibia, known as the Matterhorn of Africa. It offers  fascinating rock formations, rock paintings, picnic and camping sites.  Remember that mountaineering equipment is needed for any attempt to get to the top.
An entrance fee is payable at the office where semi-precious stones are for sale at the kiosk.

spitzkoppe
Brandberg

The Brandberg is the highest mountain in Namibia and literally means "burning mountain". It is situated about 158 km from Henties Bay and can be reached by the C35 via Uis to Kamanjab.
Local guides from the Brandberg Community Project will accompany visitors to the famous painting of the White Lady, situated in the Tsisab Gorge as well as to Maack’s Shelter and “The Girl’s School”. This requires a strenuous climb of about 1½ hour into the mountain.  They also offer guided tours to the Ga-aseb Gorge, Amis Gorge and the Koningstein summit.

brandberg

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Picture Palmtree


HENTIES BAY TOURISM ASSOCIATION
P.O. Box 595, Henties Bay, NAMIBIA
e-mail: 
info@hentiesbaytourism.com